Dino’s characterization parodied the character as more of a playboy lounge lizard.....

Hey pallies, likes we're back once 'gain to greatly gift all youse Dino-adulators with marvelously more remarkably revelatory reflections on our beautifully beloved Dino as style icon extraordinaire from the lovin' labors of purely profound prosaist Mr. Nick Guzan (pictured on the left)  who swankly scribes at this swankest of swank style site, "BAMF Style -Iconic style from movies and TV."

Likes today's deep deep Dino-devotion is tagged "Matt Helm’s Blue Blazer in Murderers’ Row" and is stunnin'ly shared by Guzan in huge homage of our Dino's 102nd anniversary of his decent to our planet.  Likes we keenly knows that all youse Dino-philes will greatly glory in yet 'nother extraordinary expose of our Dino's stellar style as sweetly seen in Helmer numbero duo ( our personal fav of the Dino-quartet) "Murder's Row."

We stand in absolute awe of Nick's awesome ability to supremely share in potent pixs and pure poetic prose  our incredible iconic Dino as swingin' spyster Matt Helm,,the coolest of the cool, the hippest of the hip, the randiest of the randy.  Likes 'gain and 'gain we coulda speak on and on 'bout Guzan's incredible insights into Dino as Helm and his wonderful wardrobe of trendy threads, but all that woulda do is delay all youse pallies from imbibin' intensely of Nick's wonderful work.  Once 'gain we profoundly praise and thoughtfully thank Mr. Nick Guzan for his wise words in reverently regalin' our one and only Dino and doin' is powerful part in bringin' pallie after pallie to deep, our, and true Dino-devotion.  To checks this out in it's original source, likes simply clicks on the tag of this Dino-report.

We Remain,

Yours In Dino,

Dino Martin Peters

JUNE 7, 2019

Matt Helm’s Blue Blazer in Murderers’ Row

Dean Martin as Matt Helm in Murderers’ Row (1966)

Vitals

Dean Martin as Matt Helm, smooth secret agent

French Riviera, Summer 1966

Film: Murderers’ Row
Release Date: December 20, 1966
Director: Henry Levin
Costume Designer: Moss Mabry
Tailor: Sy Devore

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy birthday to Dean Martin, born Dino Paul Crocetti on June 7, 1917, in Steubenville, Ohio! After a successful singing and acting career that included partnerships with Jerry Lewis and the Rat Pack as well as his own TV show, Dino was tapped for the role of Matt Helm, the American counter-agent at the center of author Donald Hamilton’s espionage novels.

While Hamilton wrote his Matt Helm novels with a serious tone, Dino’s characterization parodied the character as more of a playboy lounge lizard, the American satirical answer to his contemporary womanizer James Bond. Thus, the four Matt Helm movies produced in the late ’60s often starred the popular singer opposite many of the most attractive leading ladies of the decade.

Dean Martin with his co-stars Camilla Sparv and Ann-Margret on the set of Murderers’ Row (1966).

Martin’s second Matt Helm feature, Murderers’ Row, sets the agent on a mission to rescue a scientist, Dr. Norman Soleris, from the evil Dr. Julian Wall (Karl Malden, who cheerfully chews the scenery in his purple silk suit and rotating accents), aided by the scientist’s daughter Suzie (Ann-Margret) who “borrows” her preppy boyfriend Billy’s boat to transport them. Murderers’ Row reunited Karl Malden and Ann-Margreat a year after the two co-starred with Steve McQueen in The Cincinnati Kid.

I’m not sure if it qualifies for a full-length BAMF Style post, but can we all appreciate Karl Malden’s purple silk suit as Dr. Wall? It’s hardly timeless or classic… but Malden pulls it off.

Matt and Suzie are captured—of course—and the agent’s true identity is revealed. A plot clearly inspired by Dr. No follows, though Ann-Margret’s Suzie proves to be much more than a stylish damsel-in-distress in an era of more complacent Bond girls. Once she’s released from her torture wall, Suzie sabotages Dr. Wall’s computer system, activates a super-magnet that helps Matt evade his most dangerous attacker, and takes action to take out the pilot of Dr. Wall’s hovercraft to control it herself.

What’d He Wear?

Perhaps a nod to their nautical transportation, Matt Helm dresses in a blue double-breasted blazer that recalls a classic naval reefer jacket. These bolder blue blazers were increasingly fashionable during the mid-to-late 1960s, as recently popularized by Roger Sterling‘s rotation of at least three similar double-breasted blue blazers in the later seasons of Mad Men.

Between Matt’s blue double-breasted blazer and Suzie’s Breton stripe jumper, the spy couple sets an attractive example for timeless style at sea!

The blazer is made from a rich blue material with a soft nap and sheen that could indicate the luxurious combination of a cashmere and silk blend. The double-breasted jacket has peak lapels that roll to a single buttoning point on the four-button front. All four of the buttons are silver-toned metal shank buttons.

Not the ideal situation for a spy in a dastardly villain’s headquarters.

The blazer has a welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and non-functioning two-button cuffs with smaller versions of the silver-toned shank buttons on the front. The blazer also has double vents.

Matt loads his pockets to prepare for a final confrontation with Dr. Wall.

The leisure-embracing Matt Helm often supplements his suits, sport jackets, and blazers with the easy comfort of a pullover turtleneck jumper. In this case, he sports a powder blue turtleneck that complements his blazer. The jumper has a finely ribbed-knit roll neck (or “polo neck”), cuffs, and hem.

Looking smooth, even in distress.

Matt wears his turtleneck untucked over his waistband, but his action scenes (and even a few inaction scenes) give us looks at the details of his gray sharkskin wool trousers, including the beltless waistband with buckle-tab adjusters on the sides and the single reverse pleats on each side of the fly. The trousers have slanted side pockets, no back pockets, and straight legs that end with plain-hemmed bottoms.

Matt wears black suede chukka boots and black socks.

The suede chukka boots absorb much of the ground sand as Matt fights Dr. Wall’s henchmen.

“Polka dot shorts!” exclaims Suzie.

Thanks to Suzie’s loose grip during their maritime rescue, no questions are left unanswered about Matt Helm’s choice of undergarments with this outfit, wearing a pair of white cotton boxer shorts with very large crimson red polka dots.

Few people are this amused by their pants being pulled down unexpectedly, but it makes sense that Dino wouldn’t mind Ann-Margret being the one doing the pulling. This is one instance where a belt may be preferable to side adjusters, though.

What to Imbibe

Matt pretends that he will take Dr. Wall’s side by pouring himself a glass of Bourbon for a monitored call to his boss, Mac, who knows that it’s a ruse by telling his colleagues: “Matt Helm never took a drink of bourbon in his life!”

With Suzie chained for torture on the wall behind him, Matt buys time by indicating to his bosses that he is drinking Bourbon rather than his beloved Scotch.

Indeed, Matt Helm shares Dean Martin’s preferred whisk(e)y of choice: Scotch.

The Gun

The Matt Helm series continued to separate itself from the comparatively grounded early James Bond adventures by issuing its hero with a series of secret weapons developed with bizarre quirks, such as the Hy Hunter Bolomauser modified AR-7 pistol that only fires ten seconds after the trigger is pulled. (Source: IMFDB)

Bond fans would recall the Armalite AR-7 survival rifle in 007’s hands as he shot a Bulgar assassin and disabled a SPECTRE helicopter in From Russia With Love. In this case, the weapon has been cut down to only its main receiver with a shortened, detachable barrel and a large wooden grip, somewhat resembling the classic Mauser C-96 “Broomhandle” pistol or—perhaps more accurately—the Star Wars “blaster” that the C-96 inspired.

Matt unboxes his modified AR-7 while on Billy’s yacht.

Despite its quirks, the gun is used quite effectively, confounding Matt’s attackers when they pick it up and often trade friendly fire… and it ultimately proves to be the undoing of Dr. Wall himself.

Dr. Wall (dying): Clever.
Matt Helm: If you say so.

Matt’s pistol falls to the ground during a fight at Dr. Wall’s base.

A guard uses Matt’s delayed-fire AR-7 to accidentally take out another guard who, in turn, returns fire with his own folding-stock carbine. With both guards out of commission, Matt upgrades his firepower by arming himself with the latter guard’s M1A1 Carbine, a semi-automatic rifle chambered for .30 Carbine that was developed for the U.S. Army and most widely fielded by paratroopers during World War II. The side-folding stock differentiates the M1A1 from the standard M1 Carbine model.

Matt uses the M1A1 Carbine to dispatch another guard who has Suzie in his gun sights.

Somewhat less lethal is Matt’s pocket pistol taken from Coco (Camilla Sparv), a nickel-plated and ornately engraved “ice” pistol that fires an icy blast rather than actual bullets. The weapon comes in handy to silently—if somewhat unrealistically—disable several of Dr. Wall’s guards that he encounters during his infiltration of the lair.

Matt cools down one of Dr. Wall’s guards.

How to Get the Look

Dean Martin as Matt Helm in Murderers’ Row (1966)

Whether your day at sea will end up with invading a villain’s lair or simply enjoying a drink on the deck of your friend’s boat, Dean Martin’s Matt Helm provides a stylish template for your nautical adventure.

• Blue napped cashmere/silk double-breasted blazer with peak lapels, 4×1-button front, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and double vents
• Powder blue turtleneck with ribbed-knit neck, cuffs, and hem
• Gray sharkskin single reverse-pleated trousers with buckle-tab side adjusters, slanted side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
• Black suede chukka boots
• Black socks
• White (with large dark red polka dots) cotton boxer shorts

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie or the whole four-film Matt Helm series.

The Quote

Nobody dies for nothing.

Dean Martin infused his lounge lizard persona into a James Bond-like spy for his four-film portrayal of Matt Helm, a playboy whose love for turtlenecks, womanizing, and drinking above actual spying.....

Hey pallies,  likes today and tomorrow our little ilovedinomartin conclave is deeply delighted and proudly pleased to once 'gain return to that monumentally marvelous male style pad tagged "BAMF Style - Iconic style from movies and TV" where public relations consultant and writer Mr. Nick Guzan (pictured on the left) hangs out.  Mr. Guzan, who calls Pittsburgh home, has intensely intriguin' interests in "old movies, muscle cars, maritime disasters, fast food, and single malt Scotch.  ilovedinomartin has previously published a quintessential quintet of potent posts supremely scribed by Guzan that youse can view  HERE,  HERE, HERE, HERE, and HERE.

Today's supreme salute to our incredible icon of supreme style, our most most most beloved Dino, has been tagged by Nick, "Matt Helm’s Pink Silk Sport Jacket in The Silencers, and likes once 'gain is a magnificantly mesmerizing completely cool combo of  potent pixs, and perfect prose, the likes of which only a deep Dino-phile such as Mr. Nick Guzan could creatively create.  We gotta 'fess up that we coulda raves on and on 'bout Nick's wondrous ways with words 'bout our great great man's great great style, but that would simply delay all youse Dino-holics drinkin' deeply of Nick's awestruck adulation of our Dino as swingin' spyster Matt Helm.

We are at a total loss for sufficient words to profusely proclaim our thanks to Mr. Nick Guzan for his amazin' appreciato for our King of Cool, which we keenly know has and will continue to draw many more pallies into the Dino-fold.  To checks this out in it's original source, likes simply clicks on the tag of this Dino-gram.  Stay tuned for the Dino-'morrow where we will share 'nother huge helpin' of devotional Dino-style from the potent pen of our pallie, Mr. Nick Guzman.

We Remain,

Yours In Dino,

Dino Martin Peters

APRIL 17, 2019

Matt Helm’s Pink Silk Sport Jacket in The Silencers

Dean Martin as Matt Helm in The Silencers (1966)

Vitals

Dean Martin as Matt Helm, smooth secret agent and photographer

New Mexico to Phoenix, August 1965

Film: The Silencers
Release Date: February 18, 1966
Director: Phil Karlson
Costume Designer: Moss Mabry
Tailor: Sy Devore

Background

Dean Martin infused his lounge lizard persona into a James Bond-like spy for his four-film portrayal of Matt Helm, a playboy whose love for turtlenecks, womanizing, and drinking above actual spying may make him more of an antecedent for the character of Sterling Archer than of 007 himself.

With a bossa nova score by Elmer Bernstein and a hip mid-sixties sartorialism styled by costume designer Moss Mabry and the Rat Pack’s go-to tailor Sy Devore, the Matt Helm series serves as a swingin’ time capsule to the waning heyday of hi-fis and hedonism. Though it may be dated, the series—particularly this first film, The Silencers—seems perfectly content with that and, in fact, it may be an intentional way for the 1966 zeitgeist to remain intact for modern audiences. Never taking itself too seriously, packed with decent talent, and sticking to a tight, quick-paced plot, The Silencers differentiates itself from its contemporary spy spoofs like Casino Royale in that it can still entertain 50 years later.

No longer an active agent in the employ of the American agency Intelligence and Counter-Espionage (ICE), Matt Helm spends his days as a philandering photographer more comfortable with shooting photos than shooting bad guys. An early scene in The Silencers finds Matt returning from a shoot one evening, dropping ice cubes into his J&B—Dean Martin’s preferred Scotch in real life—when he spots a woman’s discarded clothing leading to the bedroom and comments to himself: “Treasure hunt!” The hunt leads to his discovery of Barbara, a heavily made-up blonde bombshell clad only in one of his tuxedo shirts, who claims to have been sent by his former boss at ICE to try to convince him to report back to duty instead of heading to Acapulco the next day as he had planned.

Barbara: What’s in Acapulco that you can’t find here?
Matt: Mexicans.

Matt succumbs to the woman’s charms, but—luckily—exotic ICE agent Tina (Daliah Lavi) is there to save him from Barbara with three .22-caliber rounds to the blonde’s back. She reveals that Barbara was a potential assassin sent by the “Big O” organization, proven by the signature bullets in the .38 packed in Barbara’s purse.

Matt succumbs to the woman’s charms, but luckily the exotic .22-wielding ICE agent Tina (Daliah Lavi) is there to save him from Barbara, revealed to be a potential assassin sent by the Big O organization, proven by the trademark bullets in the .38 packed in her purse.

Daliah Lavi would prove to be the queen of mid-sixties spy spoofs, appearing the following year in Casino Royale (1967), the Charles K. Feldman-produced parody of Ian Fleming’s first James Bond novel, as well as The Spy With a Cold Nose (1966) and Some Girls Do (1969).

Tina convinces Matt—here invoking his code name “Eric” from the original Donald Hamilton novels—to return to working for ICE rather than just putting it in his drinks. After the two subdue even more enemy agents outside Matt’s home, the two are on the road to Phoenix in his big Mercury Colony Park “woodie wagon” while we’re treated to a non-diegetic version of Dino crooning “South of the Border” with modified lyrics lamenting that he most postpone his trip to Mexico.

What’d He Wear?

Dean Martin’s first on-screen outfit as Matt Helm, aside from the red turtleneck and gray slacks from an earlier dream sequence, is a pink raw silk sport jacket over a beige roll-neck jumper with brown trousers and brown suede boots.

While many gents may be insecure about wearing a pink silk sports coat, Dino pulls it off with the self-assured confidence of anyone else in a sharp gray suit or a classic navy blazer. It helps that the jacket is nicely tailored, no doubt a product of Sy Devore, the legendary “tailor to the stars” who was Hollywood royalty up to his death in 1966. The jacket has khaki shank buttons on the cuffs, pockets, and front, where the top of the two buttons fastens perfectly where his tucked-in turtleneck meets the trouser waistband.

Matt Helm gets home and promptly reaches for a bottle of Scotch. Dean Martin’s influence on the character is very thinly veiled, indeed.

Distinctive for its nubby matte finish and light-wearing open weave, raw silk is a luxurious warm-weather alternative to shinier, heavier silks and more resistant to wrinkling than linen or cotton, making it an ideal fabric for a swingin’ cat like Matt Helm who spends his days and nights in the warm southwest climate and always needs to look his best should a woman sneak into his apartment and leave her discarded underwear lying around.

Matt Helm’s kryptonite.

Matt’s double-vented jacket has four external pockets, all closing with a single button through a rectangular flap. The two breast pockets are set-in, the lower hip pockets are billows-style.

The elbows are reinforced with khaki suede patches that coordinate with the buttons on the front, pockets, and two-button cuffs of the sport jacket.

Only a blonde bombshell can get Matt Helm to turn his back on a bottle of Scotch… luckily for us, as this shows the sporty details on the sides of the jacket like suede elbow patches and bellows pockets.

Matt wears a beige turtleneck in a soft, lightweight fabric, likely a fine gauge silk knit or a cashmere blend. The jumper has a full polo neck and is elasticized at the cuffs.

“You’re really loaded,” Matt comments to Tina after helping her off with her dress and spying the brassiere holster for her .22 under her right-um-armpit. “Talk about a booby-trap.” (Okay, that one wasn’t too bad.) “That’s a crazy holster. Makin’ love to you is like playin’ Russian roulette.” (Okay, did he really need four different jokes in a row for the same holster?)

Matt wears a pair of chocolate brown flat front trousers. The plain-hemmed bottoms are slightly flared to accommodate his brown suede boots, which fasten with a brass zipper on the inside of each boot.

Kicking back poolside.

Sadly, Matt’s luxurious leisure outfit gets ruined upon encountering the klutzy Gail Hendricks (Stella Stevens) at the Phoenix hotel pool, first when she dries off in front of him and splashes him his water and—more definitively—when she spills her Bloody Mary all over him.

Following the latter calamity, Matt drapes himself in a colorfully striped serape, though it isn’t enough to cover his underthings as Tina escorts him back to her hotel room, prompting Tina to comment: “I must say, she got you undressed a lot faster than I ever did.”

Not only does Matt expose his white cotton boxer briefs, but we also see his knee-high dress socks made from a thin dark brown silk to coordinate with his trousers and boots.

What to Imbibe

At the hotel pool, Gail recovers herself and offers to buy both Matt—and Tina—a drink, so he orders for them both:

Gail: Can I buy you a drink? I feel I owe you one. (to Tina) I’m sure I owe you one too. I’d really feel better if you’d accept.
Matt: Thank you very much, I’ll have Scotch and soda, and she’ll have aquavit on the rocks.
Gail: (eyes her own Bloody Mary) Hm. I’ll have to try that.

Based on an earlier scene, there’s little mystery surrounding what Scotch he would have preferred, as—like Dino himself—Matt heads straight for the bottle of J&B Rare upon his return home. This blended Scotch whisky was introduced after the repeal of Prohibition in 1933 as Justerini & Brooks had been perfecting their product for the American market. (Truman Capote, also a fan, would refer to it only as “Justerini & Brooks” rather than the shortened and more familiar “J&B”; if a storekeeper didn’t understand the request, Capote would refuse to elaborate and would simply look elsewhere for his chosen nectar.)

Unpretentious, timeless, and smooth, J&B is a fitting choice as Dean Martin’s favorite. He was reportedly a lifelong Scotch drinker, having favored mainstream brands like Black & White or Haig & Haig during the early days of his fame, according to Ciro’s nightclub proprietor Herman Hover in Iain Russell’s profile for scotchwhisky.com. However, Dean followed the fashionable set in the late ’50s and, by the time he was a full-fledged member of the infamous Rat Pack, a bottle of J&B and accompanying rocks glass were an ever-present part of Dean’s stage act.

Booze and blondes: the Dean Martin image in a nutshell.

Of course, it’s now well-known that his act was just that… an act. The glass of booze served as an effective prop for Dean to build his laidback stage persona, though there were many occasions where the glass itself was reportedly full of apple juice rather than Scotch. He certainly imbibed off-stage, but not with the recklessness of his fellow Rat Packers like Frank Sinatra or Sammy Davis Jr.

Instead, it was Dean’s fondness for smoking that led to his end. Loyal to his Kent King Size cigarettes—naturally, also Matt Helm’s choice—Dino was diagnosed with lung cancer when he was 76. Just over two years later, on Christmas 1995, Dean Martin died of emphysema in his Beverly Hills home. The lights of the Las Vegas Strip were dimmed in the entertainer’s honor.

The Guns…and Camera?

Upon seeing that he’s marked for death by The Big O, as Tina points out that the blonde had four additional assassins waiting outside in a black sedan, Matt heads to his gun cabinet and swings open a private door… revealing more guns, prompting Tina to joke: “Who designed this house, Smith & Wesson?”

Despite Tina’s comment, none of Matt’s considerable gun arsenal seems to include any firearms from that venerated Massachusetts-based manufacturer. Next to his shotguns and long guns, we see:

• a Type 14 Nambu service pistol, fielded by the Japanese military during World War II and the inspiration for the Ruger .22 Standard
• a unique insurgency pistol that appears to be the grip of a full-size pistol with a trigger and short barrel on top
• a nickel-plated Colt Detective Special with walnut grips and a classic two-inch barrel
• a large riot gun/grenade launcher with a brass trigger guard and skeleton stock

Matt also grabs a second snub-nosed .38 revolver for himself, tucking it into the left side of his trouser waistband.

Although Matt arms himself with a .38, the first weapon that he actually uses is a customized Richomatic 225 camera, modified with a double-barreled dagger-shooting action that would make Q proud.

Matt Helm’s Richomatic 225 gives a whole new meaning to the term “photo shoot”.

The Richomatic 225 6×6 TLR camera was introduced by Ricoh in 1959 as an evolution of their earlier Richoflex Diacord L.

How to Get the Look

Dean Martin as Matt Helm in The Silencers (1966)

While we’ve seen James Bond in pink shirts and pink ties, Matt Helm is the ’60s spy with enough moxie to attempt—and successfully pull off—wearing a pink sports coat. Dino’s also wise enough to let the jacket be the flashiest of his garb, neutralizing it with a beige roll-neck and plain brown pants as well as a pair of cowboy-inspired boots that reinforce his position as the all-American alternative to agent 007.

• Pink raw silk single-breasted two-button sport jacket with notch lapels, two set-in breast pockets (with button-down flaps), two bellows hip pockets (with button-down flaps), two-button cuffs, and double vents
• Beige fine gauge silk knit turtleneck jumper
• Chocolate brown flat front trousers with flared plain-hemmed bottoms
• Brown suede boots with inside zippers
• Dark brown thin silk dress socks
• White cotton boxer shorts

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie or the whole four-film Matt Helm series.